This transformation has deep roots. After Shenzhen was declared a special economic zone in 1980, the city experienced an exponential increase in employment opportunities almost overnight. Migrant workers flooded in from across China, and gradually this economic development gave rise to a middle class with disposable income and the free time to spend it.

Yet the high-end dining landscape did not catch up until much later. As noted by Tata Dai, a China-based fine dining consultant, “Before the pandemic, high-end dining was limited to a few Cantonese, Chiu Chow, and five-star hotel restaurants, plus a smattering of Japanese and Western options.”




