There’s a Thai food revolution going on as chefs think outside the box

“I don’t know what happened in the last year, but there was some sort of crazy explosion,” says Ann Redding, sitting with her husband and fellow chef Matt Danzer in a back booth of Thai Diner, their celebrated downtown New York restaurant.

A year ago, Redding and Danzer opened their takeaway spot Mommy Pai’s, barely a block away, which specialises in fried and grilled chicken tenders. The tenders, great as they are, are best thought of as vehicles for the restaurant’s assortment of Thai-inspired sauces – eight in total.

The Noom Spicy Green Sauce, a play on Northern Thai nam prik num, is tart and herbal, while pickled green peppercorn and gingery galangal brighten the Thousand Island-adjacent Phuket Island Sauce. On the side, go for coconut rice and beans, grilled in a banana leaf and som tum slaw.