There is something very satisfying about eating things on sticks – everything from the candyfloss I ate in my youth to lurid yellow curry fishballs I enjoy now.
It is also one of my favourite restaurant formats in Japan. Whether it is a kushiyaki or a yakitori joint, the absence of cutlery and the almost primal act of tearing food off a skewer make it impossible for it to feel anything but convivial – no matter how pricey or highly ranked the restaurant may be.






