
Travellers rolling north through Metro Manila along the Skyway are treated to an elevated perspective of the Philippine capital. The land is pancake flat but the buildings – from bric-a-brac slums to gilded high-rises – reach for the heavens.
My partner and I, too, are headed higher. Our aim is simple – to escape the city heat and exchange the pervasive congestion for nights that aren’t polluted by light, and days by smog. The most obvious solution would be to take a ferry to some exotic isle – after all, the Philippines has 7,000 of them – but we’ve resolved to head in the opposite direction to the Boracay-bound sun-seekers, to the pine-scented hills of Luzon.
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