Escape Manila’s heat for northern Luzon’s pine-scented hills, hanging coffins and other hidden wonders

Escape Manila’s heat for northern Luzon’s pine-scented hills, hanging coffins and other hidden wonders



Travellers rolling north through Metro Manila along the Skyway are treated to an elevated perspective of the Philippine capital. The land is pancake flat but the buildings – from bric-a-brac slums to gilded high-rises – reach for the heavens.

My partner and I, too, are headed higher. Our aim is simple – to escape the city heat and exchange the pervasive congestion for nights that aren’t polluted by light, and days by smog. The most obvious solution would be to take a ferry to some exotic isle – after all, the Philippines has 7,000 of them – but we’ve resolved to head in the opposite direction to the Boracay-bound sun-seekers, to the pine-scented hills of Luzon.




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