The scene: a kappo counter in Wan Chai. A wok sits beside a binchotan grill; diners watch as one chef slices fish with surgical precision while another sends flames licking up the belly of a seasoned wok. Welcome to Isseki Niaji. Two traditions side by side, a single question hanging in the air: What does it mean to cook Japanese food in Hong Kong?
For decades, the answer was simple. Authenticity required a Japanese passport. The city’s top counters were headed by chefs trained in Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto. Local cooks could assist, could spend years mastering the craft, but the face behind the counter was almost always imported from Japan.
