While Shanghainese and Sichuan cuisines have long been staples of Hong Kong’s dining scene, an unheralded underdog is finally catching the attention of the city’s adventurous eaters. Hunan (or Xiang) cuisine is a vibrant, chilli-laden style of cooking often mistaken for its spicy sibling from Sichuan. But as Hong Kong continues to navigate the numbing fire of mala, the distinct heat of Hunan is carving out its own devoted following.
Landlocked in south-central China and bordering Guangdong, Hunan is famous for its scenic spots and a surprisingly vibrant cocktail bar scene in its capital, Changsha. Its culinary tradition is one of China’s eight great cuisines, renowned for its liberal use of both fresh and dried chillies. But to define it solely by its heat is a mistake. In Hunan cooking, chillies aren’t meant to scorch the palate but to act as a supporting player, drawing out the deepest flavours from the main ingredients, whether they are unctuous meats or seasonal vegetables.