I recently enjoyed a delicious dinner at a restaurant in Kuala Lumpur that specialised in Hakka cuisine. Hakka restaurants have long existed in the city and elsewhere in Malaysia, but anecdotal evidence suggests their numbers have been growing rapidly in recent years.
Less widely known than Cantonese and several other Chinese regional cuisines, Hakka food may be enjoying its moment in the sun, at least in Malaysia, where the Hakka population numbers around 1.25 million. They form the largest Chinese subgroup in East Malaysia and maintain a significant presence in parts of Peninsular Malaysia as well. One of the most prominent figures in the early development of Kuala Lumpur, Yap Ah Loy (1837-85), was Hakka.






