In a corner of Hong Kong’s Tsuen Wan Market, a bustling indoor market where the floor is permanently damp and the air smells of wet fabric and drying fish, a sign reads Fu Kam Organic Farm. Below it, a cluster of grapes hangs from a metal pole – plump, luminous and impossibly glossy. There is no premium packaging, no branded box, no chilled display case, just bunches of shine muscat – the darling of Japanese fruit fanatics – and the woman who grew them.
“Come buy our local, organic shine muscat grapes!” a voice booms in accented Cantonese. “Grown with Mead Johnson baby milk formula!”
This is Yan Fuqin, known as “Sister Kam”. Before I can ask what baby milk formula has to do with grapes, she is already ushering me towards her car.
