I’ll admit when I first heard that a French-Japanese fine-dining restaurant was opening inside the 140-year-old House of Tan Yeok Nee, I was sceptical. With Teochew fine dining enjoying a quiet renaissance in China, it felt like a missed opportunity not to bring that to Singapore — especially given that this is the first time the historic mansion, the last of the ‘Four Grand Mansions’ of Teochew architecture, is finally opening its doors to the public.
But as it turns out, my cynicism lasts about as long as the first bite.
Rather than treading familiar French-Japanese ground, what chef Shusuke Kubota does at Loca Niru is far more thoughtful, and far more compelling. French technique and Japanese sensibility still form the foundation here, but the real spark comes from his reimagination of Southeast Asian flavours. The integration of local ingredients feels natural and genuinely new, resulting in one of the more exciting fine-dining meals we’ve had in Singapore this year.
The vibe
The Japanese philosophy of Kotan (こたん), which values quiet simplicity, contemplation and refined subtlety, forms the heart of the restaurant. And you feel it everywhere from the moment you climb up the stairs to the main dining room. There’s the preserved architecture with its original wooden trusses; the Teochew carvings and decorative mosaics made from porcelain bowls on the mansion’s roof, visible through the restaurant windows; and Japanese craft details that keep the space feeling distinctly wabi sabi.
With just 36 seats, the room encourages focus on the open kitchen, while still accommodating group tables and private dining rooms tucked elsewhere in the space.
