Here are five places to eat that capture the spirit of modern-day Jogja.
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Here are five places to eat that capture the spirit of modern-day Jogja.

A stone’s throw from the Kraton palace complex and Taman Sari Water Castle, this centuries-old marketplace began in the early 1800s as a bird market on the site of what was once a royal lake. Now, the market opens at 5am with grocers, butchers and fishmongers for nearby residents’ shopping needs, but for a delicious and enlightening crash course in Yogyakarta street food specialities, go from 6am when a large clutch of cooked food stalls start turning out traditional snacks like wingko, sweet chewy coconut cakes made with rice flour and cooked over a charcoal fire.
At Warung Makan Bu Sirep food stall, sample gudeg basah, a soupy version of Java’s famous palm sugar and coconut milk stewed jackfruit dish, or be tempted by the scent of sate maranggi, a West Javanese-style beef barbecue marinated with galangal and soy sauce, as it wafts through the air. On the fringes of the market, Kedai Biji Kopi serves speciality coffee which can be enjoyed on the stairs of a small amphitheatre that doubles as a community gathering space.
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