In Hong Kong neighbourhoods that once hummed with the sound of clinking glasses and chattering diners, independent kitchens sit closed behind metal grilles and many of the restaurants that remain open rarely fill.
The silence is all the more striking because just across the border with mainland China, Shenzhen’s shopping centres and food streets heave with Hongkongers queuing for hotpot, milk tea and beauty treatments.
Even Kosei Kamatani, a prominent Japanese restaurateur who has managed several Hong Kong hotspots over the past two decades, is feeling the pressure.
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