Why is natto suddenly so popular? How its health benefits outweigh the smell and taste

The delicacy infused with beneficial bacteria remains a traditional Japanese breakfast staple, but its pungent aroma, viscous texture and yeasty taste divide even its homeland.

“I thought it was a little funky at first,” Smith says during a lunch at Natto Kobo Sendai-ya, a Tokyo restaurant that offers all-you-can-eat natto – an idea of hell for some people, heaven for others.

But over the years, the mushy yellow-brown legumes “became an acquired taste like a strong cheese can, because you know how cheese can smell like dirty socks”, he says.

Recent years have seen natto join a series of fermented foods, from kimchi to kombucha, that have surged in popularity worldwide as Americans in particular seek better digestive health following the Covid-19 pandemic.