The notes of one of Chopin’s nocturnes drifted up through the deep underground air inside Noksapyeong station in Seoul on a recent Monday afternoon, echoing off curved walls and bouncing against translucent glass banisters.
A commuter sat at an upright piano in the concourse – one of the station’s cultural fixtures – and for a few unannounced minutes, the cavernous hall felt less like a subway station and more like a dream that missed its exit.





