Fashion designer Shangguan Zhe on pushing boundaries and breaking habits to stay ahead

Fashion designer Shangguan Zhe on pushing boundaries and breaking habits to stay ahead


What makes an individual elite in their field? Victoria Tang-Owen, a Hong Kong designer and creative director who works across both fashion and culture, is on a mission to find answers to that question.

She begins with a trip to Shanghai to meet Shangguan Zhe, the fashion designer behind the Chinese label Sankuanz. Launched in 2013, it is known for streetwear with a twist, offering designs drawn from thoughtful creative concepts.

Accompanying Zhe to Sankuanz’s new flagship store in Shanghai’s Xuhui district, Tang-Owen strikes up a conversation with the designer about what inspires him and helps refresh his creative process.

“Before I start a collection, I always define a larger guiding theme. That theme could last for four or five seasons – maybe two to three years. Within that, each collection explores the theme from a different angle,” Zhe tells her. “Sometimes I dive deep into a specific culture or concept I’m curious about and keep exploring it from different perspectives.”

Sankuanz’s spring/summer 2026 collection reflects this approach. It is inspired by the Himalayan region – including Bhutan, northern India and the Tibet autonomous region – which has also influenced the label’s past several collections.

“The culture there is visually rich and colourful, but my design language is more minimal,” Zhe explains. “So I don’t re-create the traditional forms directly. Instead, I interpret the ‘why’ behind them – for example, why people used certain materials like wood over stone.”

Once Zhe absorbs the cultural information he has uncovered, he proceeds to translate the underlying principles into a modern design language.

Zhe tells Tang-Owen that the designs for his collections are guided by a defined theme, which can carry across several seasons.
Zhe tells Tang-Owen that the designs for his collections are guided by a defined theme, which can carry across several seasons.

Given his process of learning as much as he can from his chosen source of inspiration, Zhe embraces travel not just as a means of relaxation, but also as a way to keep his creative juices flowing.

“Sometimes, because we live in cities, it’s easy to develop certain habits, like distinguishing between what’s trendy and what’s not, and what’s beautiful and what’s not,” he says. “This mindset can be the greatest enemy of creativity, as you end up repeating patterns and can’t break out of your familiar decision-making ways.

“I believe that travelling exposes you to unpredictable cultures, people or experiences that can suddenly break those habits, bringing many new things into our lives.”

When Tang-Owen poses the question of what it means to be elite, Zhe responds: “I think ‘elite’ represents someone who can utilise their talent and hard work to push boundaries a little further – someone who is able to take that extra step. They expand what’s possible for themselves and for others.”

And what is Tang-Owen’s takeaway from the conversation? “Focus on what you are creating and truly connect with it, to take you to the next level as an elite.”

Watch the video to hear more of Victoria Tang-Owen’s conversation with Shangguan Zhe and see her try on some of his latest designs. This is the first episode of “The Elite Equation”, a four-part series sponsored by HSBC Premier Elite where host Tang-Owen meets stand-out individuals from the worlds of fashion, sport and business to find out what drives them to be the best as they pursue their passions.

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Disclaimer from the South China Morning Post:

This article is produced in partnership with HSBC for general informational purposes only. The views expressed by featured individuals are their own and do not constitute medical, insurance or financial advice. The South China Morning Post and featured individuals disclaim all liability for, and do not endorse or guarantee, any products or services offered by HSBC or its affiliates (including HSBC Life and HSBC Premier Elite).



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