MALAYSIA – There are two major motivations for me to embark on a road trip across Peninsular Malaysia: the thrill of long, scenic, uninterrupted drives, and the promise of good food.
On a trip in September, my meals ranged from elegant heritage dining rooms to trendy coffee shops to old-school cendol stalls – a testament to the range of cuisine found across Malaysia.
If you are taking a self-driving trip up north during the school holidays, here are some eateries worth stopping at.
Muar, Johor
Sai Kee Kopi 434
121 Jalan Maharani, 84000 Bandar Maharani, Muar, Johor
Sai Kee Kopi, a beloved local institution in Muar, traces its roots back to 1953 when its founder sold coffee from a tricycle in the streets of Muar. The brand is famous for its traditional roasted coffee brewed from local “elephant bean” Liberica coffee beans, so named because they are larger and longer than Arabica beans. Liberica typically has a more pronounced aroma and body and a characteristic bitterness.
The flagship outlet I visit is also a mini-museum of vintage items, from crockery and animal figurines to a gramophone and records.
I have the Sai Kee Special (RM7.50 or S$2.35), an espresso drink with the right balance of creaminess and bitterness, perfect for dunking the coconut biscuits that come with it.
Mee Bandung 434 at Sai Kee Kopi 434 in Muar, Johor.
ST PHOTO: EDDINO ABDUL HADI
I also order the Mee Bandung 434 (RM11), yellow noodles bathed in savoury-sweet gravy made with dried prawns, chilli and garlic. Unlike the Singapore version, it comes with generous chunks of chicken and a poached egg, perfect for protein-maxxing.
And I try the Nasi Lemak Otak-Otak (RM15.50), a regional staple that comes with Muar’s famously thick and chunky otah.
Nasi Lemak Otak-Otak at Sai Kee Kopi 434 in Muar, Johor.
ST PHOTO: EDDINO ABDUL HADI
Melaka
The Majestic Malacca
188 Jalan Bunga Raya, 75100 Melaka
If you are stopping over in Melaka, stay and dine at this boutique luxury hotel built around a restored 1920s mansion that overlooks the traditional wooden houses of Kampung Morten on the banks of the Melaka River.
Kristang Afternoon Tea at The Majestic Malacca, Melaka.
PHOTO: THE MAJESTIC MALACCA, YTL HOTELS
The Lounge serves Kristang Afternoon Tea (RM75 a person; RM120 a couple), paired with fragrant Cameron Highlands tea. I enjoy the contrast between the warm, spiced savoury Epok-Epok Bredu (vegetable curry puffs) and treats like Pastel De Nata (Portuguese egg tarts) with blistered custard tops and Pulut Kung Kaya (blue pea glutinous rice with housemade kaya), each striking a nice balance of sweet and savoury.
Save room for dinner at hotel restaurant The Mansion, which serves Portuguese-Eurasian heritage dishes.
Highlights are the Kari Debal or Devil’s Curry (RM55) – tender braised chicken and potatoes in a spicy, tangy gravy that is flavoured with mustard seeds, vinegar and chilli; the Kari Keluak (RM55), earthy braised chicken with gravy enriched with the aroma and richness of buah keluak nuts; and the Cincalok Omelette (RM30), made with cincalok or fermented small shrimp, a Melakan speciality.
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