Tanjong Jara Resort: seaside kampung luxury in Terengganu

They are escorted along a coastal pathway towards the spa village, led by an entourage of 14 staff members in traditional Malay outfits playing kompang, or drums, and carrying bunga manggar (a traditional Malay decorative item) – just like in a Malay wedding.

Along the way, the procession pauses to scoop water from the aforementioned antique pots, which will be used for the mandi bunga (floral bath).

The spectacle draws the attention of other guests in the resort, many of whom were seen whipping out their phones to take photos and videos. For those who are shy or prefer privacy, this is not the activity for you.

At the spa, treatments are rooted in the philosophy of Sucimurni, which means purity of spirit and health.

Each session begins with a 10-minute mandi bunga. An a la carte traditional Malay massage (from RM300 for 50 minutes) uses deep strokes and herbal oil to soothe muscles and stimulate circulation.

If you are looking for more pampering, the three-hour package (RM750) includes specialised treatments such as Boros Akar, a herbal root scrub made of galangal and ground turmeric which exfoliates dead skin.

Every Saturday afternoon, a lawn on the property hosts Kampong Sucimurni, an outdoor gathering that celebrates the camaraderie of village life.

I wander between stations to sample snacks such as freshly fried goreng pisang, make teh tarik and watch guests and staff join classic games such as sepak takraw and tarian buloh, or bamboo pole dancing.

Other paid activities include hour-long batik painting classes (from RM85), where I learn from a local artisan how to apply molten wax, use a traditional canting tool and layer vibrant dyes to create a 46cm by 46cm artwork to take home. It is beginner-friendly and you do not have to possess any drawing skills, as there are several templates to choose from.

I pick a turtle design and, after tracing the lines, the instructor helps me apply wax. Once that is done, all I have to do is apply the various colours with a brush. The wax helps to keep each coloured dye contained within the lines so the brushwork ends up looking neat and, dare I say, quite professionally done.

The resort also offers all the perks of a modern resort, from karaoke rooms with a catalogue that ranges from Queen to Ariana Grande, and a well-stocked games room.

Secrets of a Malay kitchen

Food at the resort centres on Terengganu heritage.

One morning, I join the Secrets of a Malay Kitchen Experience (RM300), which begins with a 10-minute drive to the nearby town of Dungun for an hour-long visit to its main morning market, with the resort’s chefs as our guides.

Seeing the vast array of fresh ocean catch, from small sharks and shellfish to stingrays and squid, brings back memories of accompanying my mother on market runs decades ago.

The market also sells Terengganu delicacies such as lekor, or fish sausages or crackers, and budu, a fermented anchovy sauce popular on Malaysia’s east coast.

Back at the resort, chefs lead us in a 90-minute cooking class. I am a novice cook, but under their guidance – with ingredients portioned out neatly in advance – I manage to whip up east coast-style beef rendang, enriched with a toasted coconut paste called kerisik, and spicy ayam masak lemak cili padi, a spicy and creamy chicken stew.

I tuck into both dishes for lunch, which turn out surprisingly decent. But I am not sure I will be able to recreate these at home without help from the chefs and their kitchen staff.

Riverfront and seaside dining

Most of my meals at the resort are at Di Atas Sungei or “above the river”, one of the property’s three restaurants built directly over a rushing river that flows towards the ocean.

It serves traditional Malay dishes, including highlights such as Signature Roselle Chicken (from RM50), which is crispy wok-tossed chicken with a sweet and tangy roselle sauce, and Rendang Daging Asli (from RM70), Terengganu-style mild beef curry.

I have a hearty lunch of Nasi Dagang Bersama Gulai Ikan Tongkol (RM70) – fish curry served with fenugreek rice and crackers, roti jala and freshly made lekor – at Nelayan, the resort’s beachfront restaurant.

I also tuck into a variety of local dishes at Taste of Terengganu (RM150), a buffet held on Saturday evenings.

This is usually an outdoor affair held at the same location as Kampong Sucimurni, if the weather allows. It includes food not commonly found in Singapore, such as satar, a type of spiced fish wrapped in banana leaves, and akok, a traditional egg custard.

The buffet breakfast at Di Atas Sungei features yet more local fare like laksam, a traditional east coast Malaysian noodle dish, as well as an assortment of Malay kueh and ulam and kerabu, Malay-styled salads.

Turtle sanctuary

Beyond cultural experiences, the resort is also involved in marine conservation.

In partnership with Malaysian non-profit marine conservation organisation Pulihara, it has a beachfront sea turtle hatchery where I learn about efforts to safeguard vulnerable turtle eggs from poaching, and predators such as monitor lizards, by housing the eggs in wooden trellis structures.

If nature aligns and the timing is right, guests can also witness newborn hatchlings being released into the sea.

The partnership with Pulihara began in 2016. According to YTL Group’s sustainability reporting, more than 110,000 eggs have been protected and about 84,000 hatchlings released by 2025.

Sitting on the verandah on my final evening, cooled by the coastal breeze, I marvel at how the resort entices tourists to swop glitzy attractions and city life for the leisurely tempo of a seaside kampung. For me, it has been a welcome trade.

Travel tips

Scoot flies from Singapore to Kuantan’s Sultan Haji Ahmad Shah Airport in about an hour. Round-trip flights in December cost around $187, based on checks by The Straits Times in October.

From the airport, it takes about two hours by road to Tanjong Jara Resort, which can organise transport (RM700 for a one-way trip).

Rooms at the resort start at RM1,299++ (S$407++) a night for two adults, including breakfast. Promotion packages for Singapore residents, which include perks such as meals, massages and exclusive rates, are also available at www.tanjongjararesort.com.

Terengganu experiences its monsoon season from November through March, so check the weather forecast before planning a trip.