The brass ring on the door is the first clue that something has changed. No automatic sensor. No discreet sliding mechanism. Just a solid ring set into a metal facade, demanding that you press and wait for the door to be opened to let you in. It is a gesture that announces, before a single course lands, that this is dining as ritual.
For chef-proprietor Vicky Lau, whose Tate Dining Room has embarked on its third major incarnation in Sheung Wan, this relocation is less a change of address than a complete distillation of her craft.
After 14 years – first as a cosy 26-seat bistro on Elgin Street, then as a sprawling, pastel-hued institution on Hollywood Road with two Michelin stars – Lau has forged a new sanctuary that reflects her creative maturity.
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