The Mandarin term for this is guochao, loosely meaning “national wave” and describing the rebranding of Chinese heritage as something desirable rather than dowdy. It began with Li-Ning starring on the runway at New York Fashion Week in 2018, followed a year later by Florasis’ engraved lipstick cases – the designs of which were inspired by ancient Chinese relief-engraving craftsmanship.
Now, the trend has migrated to restaurant and bar menus – guochao in digestible form – steeped in a promise of wellness and cultural pride. The challenge, however, is how to translate a tradition defined by bitter medicine into something people actually crave.
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