It hopes to keep spirit of the family’s traditions alive while trying new things
[SINGAPORE] Years ago, tourists could stop at Kim Choo Kueh Chang’s Changi Airport restaurant for a taste of Peranakan food. Locals could pop by its kiosks at Ion Orchard or Century Square to pick up a bundle of Nonya rice dumplings.
Today, only two branches of the brand remain standing, at Joo Chiat Place and East Coast Road. Earlier plans to sell or list the business have also been shelved.
But if you ask Edmond Wong, third-generation owner of the family business, this scaling back is not a sign of failure, but a testament to the family’s efforts to “safeguard what is really important”.
Despite the downsizing, Kim Choo’s revenues continue to climb every year. But Wong, who is also director of business development and corporate social responsibility, is not concerned about “vanity” metrics. Instead, he aims to “sustain a good business”, which he believes means protecting heritage and sustaining a community.
And the reconfiguration does not mean that Kim Choo is abandoning expansion. Said Wong: “Our growth strategy right now is not growth for growth’s sake, but we grow with a good purpose.”
Living history
Wong’s grandmother, the eponymous Lee Kim Choo, founded the food establishment under a banyan tree in the aftermath of World War II, before securing a bank loan and setting up in a shophouse.
His parents eventually inherited it, introducing new products – such as chicken, vegetarian and bite-sized renditions of its rice dumplings – and expanding the business.
Wong, formerly a programmer, joined Kim Choo in 2009, because the company was facing a manpower crunch. The government had implemented significant manpower restrictions to manage Singapore’s dependence on foreign labour.
His brothers, previously an accountant and a teacher, similarly returned to bolster the family business. They returned with ideas on what could be done differently, and were given the space to experiment.
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“My parents were very willing to let us fail. So I think that’s why we were willing to come back.”
Over the years, they have made several changes to try to keep the business alive.
And indeed, some have not survived. Kim Choo attempted to start a business for halal rice dumplings with a halal kitchen, which suffered from manpower shortages. It also started restaurants and mall kiosks, which later closed due to mounting worries over strained resources and operational costs, such as manpower and rent.
But other moves have been more enduring.
Recalling a story from his childhood where two brothers – one who could not see, and one who could not walk – worked together to escape a fire, Wong was inspired to hire persons with disabilities to work for the business.
Remembering that his grandmother “adopted people off the streets to work for her”, he believed that she would also support his idea.
Kim Choo now hires about 15 persons with disabilities across its factories and outlets. Many do well in food preparation, carrying out repetitive, precise tasks such as trimming mushroom stems and weighing out portions of meat.
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