Local approaches to Ningbo cuisine at Yong Fu in Hong Kong and Shanghai

Local approaches to Ningbo cuisine at Yong Fu in Hong Kong and Shanghai


Upon opening in Shanghai in 2011, Yong Fu quickly became a mainstay in the city’s fine dining scene. Eight years later, the restaurant expanded with a discreet venue in Hong Kong’s Wan Chai district. Despite sharing the same name and culinary roots, the two branches have developed distinct identities, adapting the savoury and umami core of Ningbo cuisine to their respective regional palates.

Their shared foundational philosophy, as explained by Shanghai’s chef Xu Kun-lei, involves honouring Ningbo cuisine’s major flavour profiles through simple seasonings like salt, sugar, soy sauce, wine and perhaps a few condiments such as bean paste. Ningbo was a historic port, with its cuisine featuring an abundance of seafood and relying on traditional techniques like fermentation and braising. However, the application of these principles differs significantly between the two cities Yong Fu is based in – a divergence that begins with how each restaurant defines itself within its local culinary context.

Chef Xu Kun-lei of Yong Fu’s Shanghai branch. Photo: Handout
Chef Xu Kun-lei of Yong Fu’s Shanghai branch. Photo: Handout
Despite clear, defined practices, Ningbo cuisine is often mistaken for Shanghainese cuisine. The difference is clear though, according to Xu, a Ningbo native with 30 years’ experience in kitchens. Xu explains that Ningbo highlights savoury notes, while Shanghainese focuses on sweeter flavours and thicker glaze-like sauces, most notably seen in Shanghai’s iconic hong shao rou with its dark, sweet sauce.

The Shanghai branch of Yong Fu, perched high above The Bund, offers a modern, polished interpretation. Under Xu, the approach is one of meticulous sourcing and refined presentation. The focus is on hero ingredients and allowing their inherent quality to define the dish.



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