MALAYSIA \u2013 There are two major motivations for me to embark on a road trip across Peninsular Malaysia: the thrill of long, scenic, uninterrupted drives, and the promise of good food.<\/p>\n
On a trip in September, my meals ranged from elegant heritage dining rooms to trendy coffee shops to old-school cendol stalls \u2013 a testament to the range of cuisine found across Malaysia.<\/p>\n
If you are taking a self-driving trip up north during the school holidays, here are some eateries worth stopping at.<\/p>\n
Muar, Johor<\/h2>\n
Sai Kee Kopi 434 <\/b>
121 Jalan Maharani, 84000 Bandar Maharani, Muar, Johor<\/b><\/p>\n
Sai Kee Kopi, a beloved local institution in Muar, traces its roots back to 1953 when its founder sold coffee from a tricycle in the streets of Muar. The brand is famous for its traditional roasted coffee brewed from local \u201celephant bean\u201d Liberica coffee beans, so named because they are larger and longer than Arabica beans. Liberica typically has a more pronounced aroma and body and a characteristic bitterness.<\/p>\n
The flagship outlet I visit is also a mini-museum of vintage items, from crockery and animal figurines to a gramophone and records.<\/p>\n
I have the Sai Kee Special (RM7.50 or S$2.35), an espresso drink with the right balance of creaminess and bitterness, perfect for dunking the coconut biscuits that come with it.<\/p>\n Mee Bandung 434 at\u00a0Sai Kee Kopi 434 in\u00a0Muar, Johor.<\/p>\n ST PHOTO: EDDINO ABDUL HADI<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n I also order the Mee Bandung 434 (RM11), yellow noodles bathed in savoury-sweet gravy made with dried prawns, chilli and garlic. Unlike the Singapore version, it comes with generous chunks of chicken and a poached egg, perfect for protein-maxxing.<\/p>\n And I try the Nasi Lemak Otak-Otak (RM15.50), a regional staple that comes with Muar\u2019s famously thick and chunky otah.<\/p>\n Nasi Lemak Otak-Otak at Sai Kee Kopi 434 in Muar, Johor.<\/p>\n ST PHOTO: EDDINO ABDUL HADI<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n The Majestic Malacca <\/b> If you are stopping over in Melaka, stay and dine at this boutique luxury hotel built around a restored 1920s mansion that overlooks the traditional wooden houses of Kampung Morten on the banks of the Melaka River.<\/p>\n Kristang Afternoon Tea at The Majestic Malacca, Melaka.<\/p>\n PHOTO: THE MAJESTIC MALACCA, YTL HOTELS<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n The Lounge serves Kristang Afternoon Tea (RM75 a person; RM120 a couple), paired with fragrant Cameron Highlands tea. I enjoy the contrast between the warm, spiced savoury Epok-Epok Bredu (vegetable curry puffs) and treats like Pastel De Nata (Portuguese egg tarts) with blistered custard tops and Pulut Kung Kaya (blue pea glutinous rice with housemade kaya), each striking a nice balance of sweet and savoury.<\/p>\n Save room for dinner at hotel restaurant The Mansion, which serves Portuguese-Eurasian heritage dishes.<\/p>\n Highlights are the Kari Debal or Devil\u2019s Curry (RM55) \u2013 tender braised chicken and potatoes in a spicy, tangy gravy that is flavoured with mustard seeds, vinegar and chilli; the Kari Keluak (RM55), earthy braised chicken with gravy enriched with the aroma and richness of buah keluak nuts; and the Cincalok Omelette (RM30), made with cincalok or fermented small shrimp, a Melakan speciality.<\/p>\n I stay in a deluxe room (from RM650++ a night), which combines classic Straits Settlement elegance \u2013 warm timber floorboards, a clawfoot bathtub and a four-poster bed frame \u2013 with views of the Melaka River.<\/p>\n Sin See Tai <\/b> Sin See Tai, a cafe in Melaka.<\/p>\n ST PHOTO: EDDINO ABDUL HADI<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n I have a smooth, velvety and aromatic Flat White (RM15) at this small-batch coffee roaster, whose name means \u201cNew Era\u201d in Hokkien.<\/p>\n Tucked in a narrow alleyway in the state\u2019s historical district, its rustic shophouse facade and two-storey interiors are cosy and homely. Bakes such as caneles, cakes and sourdough bread are also worth a try.<\/p>\n In 2025, it was one of three Malaysian cafes that made it to The World\u2019s 100 Best Coffee Shops list, in 73rd place.<\/p>\n Haji Shariff Cendol <\/b> On the drive from Melaka to Kuala Lumpur, I make a stop at this beloved local institution from the early 1930s for its signature Cendol Pulut (RM3.50).<\/p>\n Unlike the cendols found in Singapore, this one comes with a generous scoop of warm, chewy pulut, or glutinous rice, which makes it extra filling. It pairs well with the thick, fragrant dark gula Melaka, rich coconut milk and soft, bouncy green pandan jelly.<\/p>\n Cendol and Rojak Mee at Haji Shariff Cendol in Seremban, Negeri Sembilan.<\/p>\n ST PHOTO: EDDINO ABDUL HADI<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n For something less sweet, try its Rojak Mee (RM7.50), rojak with a serving of yellow noodles tossed in a creamy peanut sauce, drizzled over hard-boiled egg, fried tofu, turnip, cucumber and beansprouts.<\/p>\n Capital Cafe (Kedai Makanan Capital) <\/b> Capital Cafe, a family-run kopitiam in Kuala Lumpur, opened in 1956.<\/p>\n ST PHOTO: EDDINO ABDUL HADI<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n This family-run kopitiam in Kuala Lumpur looks like something you might see in a black-and-white P. Ramlee movie. Opened in 1956, it still has its mid-century mosaic tiles, vintage dark wood booth seating, and marble-top tables.<\/p>\n The multi-cultural menu has everything from nasi padang to wok-fried kway teow to rojak.<\/p>\n I am a tempe fan and enjoy the tempe sambal (from RM2), which has a nice balance of crunch and a sweet-spicy flavour. The pergedel (RM2.50), or begedil, as these fried mashed-potato fritters are commonly called in Singapore, are huge and delicious.<\/p>\n The kopitiam also serves nasi padang staples such as beef rendang, fried chicken and eggplant slathered in sambal (from RM2). These are presented on banana leaves, which adds to their visual appeal.<\/p>\n Capital Cafe, a family-run kopitiam in Kuala Lumpur, opened in 1956.<\/p>\n ST PHOTO: EDDINO ABDUL HADI<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n The Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur<\/b> Steeped in 1930s old-world glamour, this heritage hotel has hosted royals such as King Charles and celebrities like England\u2019s former footballer David Beckham.<\/p>\n Before dinner, I have a mocktail (RM25) at hotel bar The Smoke House, where a veteran bartender, who wants to be known only as Johnnie the Barman, regales us with backstories of each drink.<\/p>\n My drink, the non-alcoholic version of one of its cocktails, Tom Collins, made with lemon juice, sugar and sparkling soda water, for instance, is inspired by a late 19th-century bar hoax about a man who went around slandering innocent people.<\/p>\n Colonial Cafe, The Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur.<\/p>\n PHOTO: THE MAJESTIC HOTEL KUALA LUMPUR, YTL HOTELS<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n At the hotel\u2019s Colonial Cafe, we are accompanied by live music from members of the iconic Soliano jazz family, descendants of Malaysian jazz pioneer Alfonso Soliano.\u00a0<\/p>\n With its dark timber panelling, plush seating and attentive hospitality, the place exudes refined old-world luxury, but the food is, surprisingly, homely and comforting.<\/p>\n I have the Colonial Sampler set meal (RM180), an elevated Hainanese take on British cuisine. It includes Hainanese Chicken Rice Balls, which are served on soup spoons. The hand-pressed rice balls, a Melaka staple, are fun to eat and have a nice aroma.<\/p>\n Hainanese Chicken Rice Ball at Colonial Cafe, The Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur.<\/p>\n PHOTO: THE MAJESTIC HOTEL KUALA LUMPUR, YTL HOTELS<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n \u200bThe set meal also includes the Stuffed Crab Shell, a deep-fried crab shell filled with crabmeat, vegetables and herbs, and accompanied by a garlic chilli dip.<\/p>\n Stuffed Crab Shell at Colonial Cafe, The Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur.<\/p>\n PHOTO: THE MAJESTIC HOTEL KUALA LUMPUR, YTL HOTELS<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n The Hainanese Chicken Chop, also part of the set, is pure comfort food \u2013 deep-fried, cracker-crumbed chicken thigh with hand-cut fries, peas and tangy spiced onion gravy. It is perfectly fried and juicy inside, and the skin is nicely crisp.<\/p>\n<\/picture><\/div>
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Melaka<\/h2>\n
188 Jalan Bunga Raya, 75100 Melaka<\/b><\/p>\n<\/picture><\/div>
18 Jalan Jawa, Kampung Jawa, 75100 Melaka<\/b><\/p>\n<\/picture><\/div>
Seremban, Negeri Sembilan<\/h2>\n
44 Jalan Yam Tuan, Bandar Seremban, 70100 Seremban, Negeri Sembilan<\/b><\/p>\n<\/picture><\/div>
Kuala Lumpur<\/h2>\n
213 Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, City Centre, 50100 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur<\/b><\/p>\n<\/picture><\/div>
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5 Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin, Tasik Perdana, 50000 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur<\/b><\/p>\n<\/picture><\/div>
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